Weihai is one of the best summer resorts in China. The city is in the eastern part of Shandong province. From here by the sea, you can easily get to Manchuria and the Korean peninsula. The natural conditions in Weihai are comfortable for Europeans, and here the air is clean, the sky is blue, and the sea is beautiful. The trees here are mostly pines. Compared to other Chinese cities, Weihai is quite small, there are fewer people here than in Qingdao, and the prices are lower too. In summer, the weather is pleasant and warm, there is no sticky and heavy tropical heat, unlike in the cities of Southern China.

History

Weihai played a special role in the history of China. Originally, the city was called Weihaiwei (威海卫), and it was a fortress against the sea pirates. In the second half of the 19th century. Chinese Imperial government started to actively develop and modernize its navy forces. Near Weihai there is an island called Liugong Island (刘公岛), and, since the 1880s, it became a major naval base for the Chinese Beiyang fleet (北洋水师). In 1895 there was a battle here between Chinese and Japanese navies, and due to multiple reasons, the Chinese navy was defeated.

In 1898 China gave to its ally, Russia, the permission to lease certain territories in Manchuria, which was the beginning of Harbin and Port Artur (modern 旅顺口). Great Britain was dissatisfied with growing Russian influence in the North of China, so they demanded the Chinese government to lend them Weihaiwei. If you look at the map, you’ll see that Port Artur and Weihaiwei are two key points that guard the Bohai sea – and those who control the Bohai sea, get quick access to Beijing. English concession in Weihai consisted of four parts: Port Edward (modern Weihai), Liugong Island, Weihaiwei bay, and a bit of land territory around the city. According to the lease conditions, the British would lend the territories from China, until the Russian withdrawal from Port Artur.

British soon realized that Weihaiwei bay wasn’t suitable for a building of a big modern seaport due to some natural conditions, but it was a good place for British ships to stay in summer. The main British base in China was Hong Kong, but in summer it’s hot and wet climate was unbearable for English sailors, so Liugong Island with some already existing infrastructure became a summer base for the British fleet. Port Edward itself became a resort for the rich English in China. The administration built the range of necessary buildings, including barracks, chapels, a club building, etc. After Japan’s victory in the Russo-Japanese war, Russians withdrew from Port Artur. Nevertheless, Britain continued its lease of Weihaiwei: German Empire leased Qingdao from China, and Shandong province became a part of the German sphere of influence, so Weihaiwei could be used to observe and possibly disrupt their actions in China. After the end of WWI and German withdrawal from Shandong, Weihaiwei’s strategical importance faded, it was turned into a free port, and in 1930 the city was turned over to China. According to the agreement, the British were allowed to continue their naval operations at Liugong Island. But in 1938, the Japanese troops invaded Weihaiwei and captured Liugong Island, and after their defeat, all the area once again became a part of China.

Attractions

While Weihai is still a base for the Chinese navy, the city is more associated with summer resorts than with ships and battles. The old name Weihaiwei was turned into more brief Weihai, and once warlike Liugong island became the main local tourist attraction.

Huanhai road

One of the most beautiful scenery is the route along Huanhai road (环海路). The serpentine road goes from the south-east to the north-west and embraces the small peninsula. From here you get some gorgeous views on the bay. When you are in Weihai, wait for a sunny day, and drive your car or get a taxi to Huanhai road. You will see the beautiful sea and green highlands, small houses and fishing boats.

Liugong island

Liugong Island is a small picturesque island that can be seen from Weihai. You can get here by ferry from the Liugong Island tourism wharf. On the island, you can walk along the seafront and visit local museums. To get to the highest spot on the island, the most pleasant way is by cableway. From the summit, you will see the open sea and the northern, uninhabited part of the island that is covered with pines.

Korean quarter

Korea is right across the sea from Weihai, so there are many Koreans in the city. One of the popular places in the city is called Hanlefang (韩乐坊). Here you can try Korean food, drink some soju and buy some Korean stuff. Many signs are written in both Chinese and Korean, and the Korean language is quite common here. Most places start their work in the evening.

Seafront

Weihai stretches along the seashore, and the local seafront is divided into few parks: Happiness Park (幸福公园), Weihai Park (威海公园), and Marine Park (海上公园). Daytime is good for watching the sea, nighttime is good for watching lights coming from the boats and Liugong Island. In the Happiness Park you can rent two-person bicycles and explore the statues of famous people, like composer Chopin and the physicist Einstein. Weihai Park’s part of the seafront the longest one and the Marine Park has a sandy beach.

Beaches

If you are into beach activities, the biggest beach is in the northern part of the city. Near the beach, there is a campus of Shandong University. The beach is called Weihai International Beach Resort. It is accessible 24/7, the entrance is free, and there are some toilets, shower rooms and storage boxes (~20 yuan). The beach is sandy, the water is quite clean, and it’s not too shallow, so swimming here can satisfy people with different levels of swimming abilities. Near the beach, there are plenty of shops and seafood restaurants, so if you forgot to buy swimwear, a hat or whatever, you could do it here. Some shops can also lend you a small rowing boat.

There are also other beaches, for example, the ones at the Crescent Bay (半月湾) or the Grape Terrace. There are fewer people there, but the swimming conditions are a bit less comfortable. I’ve been a few times to the Crescent Bay, and every time there were huge sea waves. But anyway the view on the bay and the islands were great, so it’s a great place to drink some wine with your friends.

Local cuisine

Weihai is a coastal city, so there is plenty of seafood dishes in the local cuisine – shrimps, scallions, oysters, and many others. In general, local food belongs to the Northern Chinese cuisine called Lu, but the taste is more natural and less spicy than for example, in Jinan. One of the main spices here is the garlic. If you’re into cooking, take a look at the local markets, they are situated all across the city, and there are plenty of fresh seafood and vegetables there. There is a seafood restaurant called “Jiuxi” (九禧海鲜居), it’s near Weihai Park. Locals like to gather there to eat some special seafood dishes. For example, drunken shrimps, crusty bread, and scallions with onion.

Transport

Weihai is quite small compared to Qingdao and Jinan, the local transportation is mostly public buses and taxis. That will be great if you have your own bicycle in Weihai because the local terrain near the seafront is flat and suitable for cycling.

Weihai has three railway stations and an airport. The trains to the mainland depart from here in two directions: to Yantai in the west or to Qingdao in the south. The airport is situated about 30 km from the city, and the ride is about 60-100 yuan in taxi fare. In Weihai, there is also a seaport, from where you can go to Yantai and Qingdao, or you can cross the Bohai Sea and get to Dalian. There are also sea routes to South Korea and Japan. Many Korean tourists come to Weihai by sea.